Vehicles

Vehicles

People, especially Americans, have always been obsessed with the idea of labor-saving machinery. No matter our age, gender, race, economic status, or geographic location, we are taught that the automobile is the answer to our prayers. So why walk when you can ride? Wouldn't this be the best thing to do during the zombie outbreak? Travel time would go from days to mere hours. Equipment storage would no longer be a problem. And wouldn't running zombies over erase the threat of their bite? The answer to all of these questions is, of course, yes. However, with these strong advantages comes a bunch of equally-strong problems.

The first problem is fuel consumption. Gas stations may be spread thin. Chances are that the ones you do find will have been drained long ago. You must determine the exact mileage of your vehicle, pack it with extra fuel, and plan the exact route(s) you will take. These steps are great, but they will only take you so far.


Which path will lead you to safety? Most roads, especially in North America, quickly become blocked by abandoned vehicles after an infection hits. Other obstacles may include destroyed bridges, piles of debris, barricades abandoned by last-ditch defenders, and possibly the random downed plane. Off-roading also presents an equal if not greater challenge. Roaming the countryside, searching for an open path to freedom is the best way to run out of gas.


Also, imagine breaking down. The automobile is one of the most complicated machines on earth. On bad roads, without a convenient auto garage, this machine will swiftly become a pile of useless junk.


There is also noise. Any powered engine, no matter how good the muffler, will generate more noise than the loudest human footstep. If you find yourself in a vehicle that, for whatever reason, cannot go another foot, then grab your gear and run! Up until this moment, you have been announcing your presence to every Infected in the surrounding area. Roaring through an infestation sounds great when things are going well. But any problem can make you end up alone, on foot, with a lot of bad things quickly heading your way. (The vehicle in the image above is specified at the bottom of this post.)


The following is a short list of typical vehicles and their advantages and disadvantages.


The Sedan
Otherwise known as your basic "car". It has thousands of variants, making it difficult to generalize about their advantages and disadvantages. When selecting, look for gas mileage, equipment and gas storage space, and durability. The sedan's one major drawback is their lack of all-terrain capability. As previously mentioned, all roads may be blocked, jammed, or destroyed. If you own a sedan, ask yourself how if would perform crossing a field. Just add snow, rocks, mud, ditches, tree stumps, streambeds, and a variety of abandoned junk. Chances are your sedan will not get very far. Keep in mind that the jammed roads just mentioned are usually filled with broken-down and/or stuck sedans.


The SUV
With the off-road capability of a military vehicle and the comfort and reliability of a sedan, they might appear to be the ideal means of escape. What could be better for fleeing the Infected? A lot. Not all SUVs are equipped for all-terrain driving, despite their appearance. But what about safety? Shouldn't the sheer mass of such large vehicles offer more protection? Well, repeated consumer studies have shown that many SUVs possess safety standards well below that of many mid-sized sedans. However, that being said, some of these vehicles are truly what they appear to be: rugged, dependable workhorses that can handle unforgiving conditions. If choosing a SUV, make sure to research your options carefully so that you can tell these genuine models from the gas-guzzling fakes.


The Truck
This class refers to any mid-sized cargo vehicles such as vans, delivery trucks, and recreational vehicles. With poor gas mileage, limited off-road capability (depending on the model), and massive, ungainly bulk, these vehicles should be considered the worst choice in transportation.


The Bus
These large road monsters, as with the previous class, can present as much a danger to their drivers as to the Infected. They lack speed, maneuverability, fuel efficiency, off-road capability, stealth, and any other feature you will need to escape an infested area. If a bus has any form of "advantage", it is in defense, not escape. It would be possible to drive a bus into an infested areaa and use it as a mobile fortress, only after upgrading its armor and reinforcing the windows with bars or steel grates. Unless you plan on using a bus in this particular way, stay clear of them.


The Armored Car
These civilian tanks are hard to find. Unless you work for a private security company or have a vast, personal fortune, it will be unlikely that you will have access to one. Despite their poor mileage and lack of all-terrain capability, they present a number of disadvantages for those of you on the run. Their massive armor gives the driver virtual invulnerability. Even in a breakdown, those inside could survive for as long as their provisions held out. No zombie force of any size or strength could ever be capable of penetrating the reinforced steel.


The Motorcycle
For fleeing an infested area, the motorcycle is by far the best choice. They can reach places inaccessible to four-wheeled vehicles, and their speed and maneuverability allows them to be ridden right through a crowd of Infected or a crowed road of abandoned vehicles. Their light weight makes it possible for them to be pushed for miles, but, of cours, there are drawbacks. Motorcycles have small gas tanks, and they offer zero protection from Infected. If you choose this vehicle, note that most fatalities when using the motorcycle to flee an infested area will probably come from ordinary accidents from reckless and/or arrogant riders.


The Bicycle
This vehicle is fast, quiet, muscle-powered, and easy to maintain. The bicyle is also the only vehicle that you can pick up and carry if the terrain gets too rough. We recommend using a mountain bike, rather than the racing or recreational models. However, don't let the speed and mobility get to your head. Choose caution over speed, and wear standard safety gear if available. The very last thing you need would be to end up in a ditch with your legs broken and bike trashed. Especially with the moans of the Infected drawing nearer.



Personally, I would choose one of the dependable, rugged, and durable SUVs for the Infected. Each one of you will have your own opinion and choice of preferred vehicle, however giving their obvious strength and cargo space, I would have to say a vehicle such as the Hummer. They're civilian vehicles modeled after the military's High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle (HMMWV or Humvee). Choose whatever vehicle you think most efficient, but know that you are taking your life into the hands, or rather the wheels, of that vehicle.

-The vehicle in the above image is the Conquest KNIGHT XV, starting at around $500,000 USD... yeah, I know-

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Credits to Max Brooks' "The Zombie Survival Guide"

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Equipment

Equipment

Remember, traveling light is vital for any journey you make. Before packing, ask yourself, "Do I really need this?" After asking yourself this and compiling your gear, ask yourself the same question again. And again. However, when we say "Travel light", this doesn't mean simply grabbing your handgun, a bottle of water, and some Skittles for the road. No matter where decide you hole up, a prison, school, mall, your own house, or anywhere where supplies are abundant, remember that your equipment can be more important than where you hide. Remember, your equipment is all you may have with you. You will have to carry your hospital, storeroom, and armory on your back.

Below is a list of standard equipment you will need for a successful journey. Other specific gear, such as alpine skis, sunblock, or mosquito netting should be added according to your enviroment.

- Backpack

- Dependable hiking boots (preferably already broken in)

- Two pairs of socks

- Wide-mouthed, quart-sized water bottle

- Water-purification tablets*

- Wind and waterproof matches

- Bandanna

- Map**

- Compass**

- Small flashlight (AAA battery) with coated lens

- Poncho

- Small signaling mirror (most-effective way to quiety signal/alert other survivors)

- Bedroll or sleeping bag (both will be too cumbersome)

- Sunglasses (polarized lenses)

- Palm-sized first-aid kit*

- Swiss Army knife or multi-tool

- Hand-held radio with earpiece**

- Knife

- Binoculars**

- Primary firearm (preferably a semi-automatic carbine)

- Fifty (50) rounds (if you're in a group, thirty (30) per person)

- Cleaning kit**

- Secondary firearm (preferably a .22 rimfire pistol)*

- Twenty-five rounds**

- Hand weapon (preferably a machete)

- Signal flares**

*not necessary in groups

**need to be carried by only one person if in a group

In addition, all groups should carry:

- Silent ballistic weapon (preferably a silenced firearm or crossbow)

- Extra ammunition for fifteen (15) kills (if weapon differs from standard firearm)

- Telescopic sight

- Medium-sized medical kit

- Two-way radio with headphones

- Crowbar (instead of hand weapon)

- Water-purification pump

Once you have chosen your gear, make sure that it all works. Then try it again. Wear your backpack for an entire day. If the weight is too much in the comfort of your own fortress, imagine how it will feel after a daylong hike. A few of these problems can be solved by selecting objects that combine various tools (some survival knives carry compasses, some portable radios come equipped with flashlights, etc.). When choosing weapons, make sure to apply this space-saving technique as well. A silencer for your primary weapon will require less space than an entire new weapon such as a crossbow and extra bolts. Wearing your pack for a day will also give you an idea where the chafe points are, whee the harness needs adjusting, and how best to secure your gear.

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Credits to Max Brooks' "The Zombie Survival Guide"

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Outfitting

Gear

You may want to bulk yourself up with heavy clothing to stop any possible bite attacks. Wouldn't it be a good idea to put as much outer protection on yourself for this exact scenario? No. There are two words that must be your first defense... speed and agility. Any form of armor will accomplish two things: decrease your ability to be fast and agile as just mentioned, and it will drain your energy during prolonged conflicts. Also, people with added protective armor will feel much more confident and consiquently tend to take greater risks than those in regular clothing. This misleading bravery will result in your death. Heavy outer-coating may sound like a good idea, but the best protection from any zombie bite is distance. If, however, you still insist on some form of protective gear, we recommend any Kevlar covers. The lighter, thinner, more flexible ones designed to stop blades and guard dogs are preferable. We also recommend a form of tactical vest with pistol holsters and pouches for spare clips and magazines. In case you really like the specific vest pictured above, it is a "Leapers UTG PVC-V547BT" and can be purchased through this link: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ItemDetail.aspx?sku=VEST-160

You may also want to wear a gas mask so that any blood splatter won't enter your mouth or eyes, causing you to become infected. There will be no need for it for "gas attacks", however the protection it will offer your face from the spray of zombie blood will be invaluable.

Clothing

If there is any spare time after your initial attack, go to a bathroom or kitchen before the situation gets out of control and chaotic. Cut or buzz your hair, and wear only tight clothes. The Infected have a habit of grabbing and pulling whatever they have towards them to bring it in and bite, this includes loose clothes and long hair. Anything that is tight and easy to move in is ideal. Like mentioned above, bulking up with extra clothes may sound like more protection from bites and other wounds, but this is wrong. More clothes = less speed ad agility. Less speed and agility = death. Also, take off all jewelry you may be wearing and put on a pair of running shoes or anything else light and closed-toed. Boots such as combat boots are also acceptable, especially for long hikes and journeys.

Weapons: Firearms

Firearms

Of all the weapons at your disposal, nothing is more important than your primary firearm. Keep it cleaned, oiled, loaded, and keep it close. A survivor with a cool head, steady hand, patience, and plenty of ammunition is more than a match for an army of Undead. Choosing the correct firearm will be one of the most important things you will do. There are many variables to consider when picking a firearm to use against the Undead. Weight, durability, effective range, stopping power, and ease of use are a few of the more vital factors to take into account. There is also the role you are playing to think about: defense, attack, or flight? Above all else, never carry just one weapon, preferably firearms. In this post we will discuss the general firearms categories. In another post we will go over specific weapons that you should consider to be your primary goal to obtain.

The Heavy Machine Gun

These weapons allow storms of lead to be unleashed within seconds, invaluable to battling humans. Zombies, however, are a different story. The "spray and pray" tactic will only serve to waste your precious ammunition. Remember: you are going for a head shot - a single round precisely placed into the brain. Since the machine gun is designed for "saturation fire", it may take hundred, even thousands of rounds for a random lethal shot. The standard 5.56mm round used by the US Army's SAW (Squad Automatic Weapon) has the power and ability to snap a human spine, sever limbs, or even tear a zombie in half. A head shot will still remain necessary. A decapitated head can still bite, so why give yourself the unecessary need of having to finish off a mass of writhing and potentially dangerous body parts?

The Submachine Gun

This class of weapons still presents the same problem as the heavy machine gun: number of rounds spent versus dead zombies. When fighting indoors, however, the submachine gun has a large advantage. Be sure to keep it on the "single shot" setting, since full auto is very tempting, yet a waste of ammunition nonetheless. Its short barrel makes it easier to handle than a heavy machine gun, while its folding stock provides more support than a pistol. It lacks in range power, and like all semi and fully automatics, is subject to jamming. This would put yourself at unnecessary risk. This would be the only reason to discount a submachine gun as your primary weapon.

Assault Rifle

Originally to bridge the gab between the rifle and submachine gun, the assault rifle offers both range and power. Even though there is still the ability to switch to single fire, the tempation of switching to fully auto exists and is very, very tempting. Keep these questions in mind: What is its range? What is its power? What is its accuracy? Is the appropriate ammunition readily available? How easy is it to keep clean and maintained? For an example, we will look at two of the most widely-recognized assault rifles in history: the M16 and the AK-47. The US Army M16A1 is considered by many to be the worst assault rifle ever created. Its overcomplicated mechanisms causes it to be both difficult to clean and prone to jam. Adjusting the sight, which must be done everytime the target changes range, requires the use of a nail, ballpoint pen, or similar device. On the other side of the spectrum, the Soviet AK-47, is considered to be the best assault rifle ever created. Even though it is heavier than the M16 (10.58 pounds vs 7 pounds), it has a much larger round and therefore much more stopping power. It never jams or overheats, and it can be fired underwater or with a clip full of sand. Its been run over by jeeps and had it barrel bent, yet it can still fire. A member of the AK-47 family such as the Chinese Type 56 or Israeli Galil will be your best bet.

The Bolt-/Lever-Action Rifle

A rifle's single shot capability forces the shooter to make every shot count, therefore increasing the chances of a lethal hit. Ammunition is consequently conserved, and is already widely and readily available. Easy to clean and maintain, the rifle is also much more accurate than any of the previously mentioned firearms. Try to find an older, military used rifle, since they were all designed for close combat use with hard, durable wooden stocks.

The Semiautomatic Rifle

With the semiautomatic rifle, there is still a possibility of wasting ammunition, since a round is expended every time the trigger is pulled. A fair amount of discipline is required due to this, however, this ability can be a blessing when engaging multiple targets. For those of you in close quarters or on the run, the semiautomatic carbine serves the same function as the larger model. It does possess half of the effective range, but it is also much lighter and easier to carry. The World War II M1 Garand or M1 Carbine should be your primary choices. Surprising to some, these two weapons were designed to survive the greates conflict in human history. Of the two, the M1 Carbine is still in production, with the M1 Garand having still remaining in the market. The M1 Carbine's light weight and short muzzle perfectly suit this weapon for indoor combat or log journeys on foot. More modern choices include the Ruger Mini-30, Ruger Mini-14, and the Chinese Type 56 (a copy of the Soviet SKS carbine, not to be confused with the assault rifle of the same name). If you can maintain discipline, you will not find a better weapon than the semiautomatic rifle.

The Shotgun

This weapon reigns supreme in close quarters. A good 12-gauge shotgun will literally blow a zombie's head off. With range, however, the pellet-dispersal widens and loses power, giving the shooter less of a chance of skull penetration. A solid slug can be used with the same effect as a rifle, which is good for when the target is further away. Being able to change from solid slugs to close-range pellet spreads can be invaluable. If cornered, a good shotgun blast can send zombies sprawling and clear a path for you.

The Pistol

This American cultural icon isn't very useful against a swarm of zombies. Despite the ease of use in the movies, the average citizen will have trouble hitting something as small as the human head. Where handgns do come in handy is in extreme circumstances. If you are grabbed by a zombie, a pistol can save your life. Pressing the end of the barrel against a zombie's skull requires no skill and insures an "insta-kill". Small, light, and easy to carry, handguns make great secondary weapons.

.22 Caliber Weapons

These weapons (pistol and rifle) fire a round no wider than a few millimeters and no longer than an inch. Usually used for target practice, competitions, and even small game, the .22 can still hold its own against its heavier-caliber cousins. The small size of the rounds means you can carry up to three times as much ammunition. It is also much lighter than a normal rifle, and the ammunition is easy to manufacture and plentiful throughout the country. There are two main disadvantages. One: the small round offers zero stopping power. People have been shot by a .22 and have not realized it until later. And two: there is a lack of skull penetration at longer ranges. The best target is the eye. The small round will enter the eye socket and will bounce around the inside of the skull, scrambling the brain and doing as much damage as a .45. Do not discout the toylike nature of this firearm.

Accessories

Silencers - if attainable, a silencer can be a vital attachment to your firearm. Their abiliy to muffle the gunshot eliminates the use of bows and other silent shooters... essential for sneaking by unnoticed.

Telescopic Sight - these will increase your accuracy at range immeasurably, especially for long range sniper attacks.

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Credits to Max Brooks' "The Zombie Survival Guide"
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Weapons: Non-Firearms

Non-Firearms

Choosing the correct weapons will be one of the most important things you will do. It will mean the difference between death and survival. There are many variables to consider when picking a weapon to use against the Undead. Weight, durability, effective range, stopping power, and ease of use are a few of the more vital factors to take into account. Above all else, never carry just one weapon. In this post we will discuss broad fields of weaponry. In another post we will go over specific weapons that you should consider to be your primary goal to obtain. To start off this post, we will go over some general rules first.

1. Obey the law - follow your state's regulations on firearms and explosives, you do not want to have a criminal record when the Undead rise.

2. Train constantly - a well-trained individual with the very basic weapon has a better chance of survival than any novice with the latest firearm; no matter what weapon you choose, it must become an extension of your own body

3. Care for your tools - firearms need to constantly cleaned, and blades/bludgeons also need polish and rust protection; care for your weapon as if it is a living thing, otherwise you will not be

4. Beware display items - some weapons you may come across will be merely for decoration; these will not be nearly as durable or reliable as the actual thing, so find out if it's an original

5. Develop the first weapon... the human body - if cared for and trained properly, the human body is the most dangerous weapon on earth; Americans are known for their lack of physical excercise and bad diet, do not be one of these "ready-to-eat" cattl; know what your body is capable of, and study and master at least one martial art

Bludgeons

This category includes weapons such as: the baseball bat, lead pipe, crowbar, cast iron skillet, carpenter's hammer, and the sledgehammer. When using a blunt weapon, remember that the goal is to crush the brain. Sticks, ax handles, and other wooden clubs are good for knocking a zombie out of the way or beating off an individual attack. What they lack, however, is the strength and weight necessary for a lethal attack. The best bludgeon is the steel crowbar. Its relatively lightweight and durable construction makes it ideal for prolonged close combat. Its curved, semi-sharpened edge also allows for a stabbing motion through the eye socket, a primary target, directly into the brain case. In addition to this, the crowbar can also pry open doors, shift heavy objects, and other tasks it was originally designed to perform.

Edged Weapons

This category includes weapons such as: the ax, hatchet, machete, and the sword. Blades, in any form, have advantages an disadvantages over bludgeons. Those that have enough strength to split the skull rarely stand up after many repetitions. For this reason, slicing, particularly decapitation, serves almost the same function as a head blow. The advantage of slicing over bludgeoning is that it can make killing a zombie unnecessary. Simply chopping off a limb or severing the spine is enough to disable a zombie. Remember, however, that a decapitated head can still possibly bite, and therefore remains a threat. Also, blood from severed limbs can be in large amounts, and there is a large danger of getting infected from this. If any bodily fluid from a zombie (such as blood, saliva, or mucous) enters you, whether through a cut in your skin, into your mouth, or by any other means, you will be infected as if you were bitten. Do yourself and more importantly, your close ones, a favor and shoot yourself in the head. Back to blades, your best bet will be the common machete, because of its size, weight, and availability.

A variety of other hand weapons exist and may serve as useful weapons. If you come across a tool you think may be useful, ask yourself these five questions:

1. Can it crush a skull in one blow?

2. If not, can it decapitate in one blow?

3. Is is easy to handle?

4. Is it light?

5. Is it durable?

Questions 1 and 2 are essential, but 3, 4, and 5 will have to depend on your present situation.

Power Tools

Despite what the movies and games portray, the chainsaw is NOT an ideal weapon. One: fuel supply is finite. Two: Carrying extra fuel cells means extra weight. Three: a single mistake may cause you to tear through your own flesh and bone just as easy as any Undead. Four: like all machines, there will be a ton of noise. 1+2+3+4=zombie dinner. Resist the tempation to pick up any power tool.

Sling

One would need extensive training to be accurate at all with this weapon. Scoring a direct head shot will be near-impossible. You will be better off throwing rocks.

Slingshot

This weapon is much more accurate than the sling, however it lacks punching power. At no range, no matter how close, will any projectile from a slingshot penetrate a skull. Using this will merely alert a zombie to your presence.

Blowgun

Poison has no effect whatsoever on the Undead. Therefore, disregard this weapon entirely.

Throwing Knives

These short-range weapons require weeks of practice to hit something like the human body, and months of practice to accurately hit something as small as the human head. Don't waste your time mastering a third-rate weapon. Use that time instead to learn a decent, conventional weapon.

Long/Compound Bow

Hitting a zombie through the head is a very difficult task. A more practical use is to deliver incendiary arrows to silently start fires at long distance.

Crossbow/Hand Bow

A crossbow is not a firearm. However, the power and accuracy of a modern crossbow can send a "bolt" clean through a skull at a quarter mile. Dubbed "The Silent Killer", its quiet firing will be invaluable to you when attempting to sneak by the Infected and forced to take one out. A one-shot, it is a sniper's weapon and should only be used for a single zombie, not crowds, and only if you are in a group, defending your home, or when no silenced firearms are available, since it is relatively heavy and considered a primary weapon. The hand bow has inferior accuracy, power, and range compared to the crossbow, so use this weapon sparingly.

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Credits to Max Brooks' "The Zombie Survival Guide"
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Identification

The first and most crucial part of surviving the infection is to be able to identify the initial threat. Even the most hardcore survivalist can be caught off-gaurd if not prepared. Many humans will not survive this first step, simply because the last thing anyone will think is that they are being attacked by a zomie and need to deal with it as such. They will not want to kill the thing that they innocently think is a another human being who needs help. You, however, are being warned now to be prepared and recognize the early warnings. This simple step will automatically put you further on the survival scale. So whether you're at the mall, a wedding, or just in your house, know that at any moment the infection could spread to your area. Stay alert. Stay vigilant. Stay alive. Here are some things you should keep an eye and ear out for.

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1. Homicides where the victims were killed by head shots or decapitation. The "murderers" are people like you: those who recognized the threat for what it truly was and dealt with it themselves. They are almost always declared murderers and are punished as such. Be careful of falling to such a fate.

2. Missing persons cases, especially ones in the wilderness or uninhabited areas. Is the story is photographed or preferably televised, pay careful attention to what degree of armament the search parties carry. One rifle, for example, is common. Anything much more may not be a simple case of missing persons.

3. Cases of "violent insanity" where the assaiant attacked close friends or family without any weapons. Try to find out if the attacker bit or tried to bite his victims. If yes, are any of the victims still in the hospital? Have any of them died within days of the injuries? These are serious signs to watch out for.

4. Riots or civil disturbances that began without provocation or any other logical cause.

5. Disease-based deaths in which either the cause is undetermined or seems highly suspect. Be on the alert for suspicious explanations such as West Nile virus or "mad cow" disease. These may be a cover-up.

6. Any of the above in which media coverage was forbidden. A total press blackout is rare in the U.S. The occurance of one is an immediate red flag. Do consider, however, that the cause of zero-press allowed doesn't always mean an attack of the living dead. But any event causing a government as media-conscious as our own to clamp down merits close attention. No matter what the truth is, it can't be good.

Once an event has tripped your sensors, keep track of it. Note the location and its distance from you. Watch for similar incidents around or near the original site. If within a few days or weeks these incidents do occur, study them carefully. Note the response of law enforcement and other government agencies. If they react more forcefully with each occurence, chances are that an outbreak is unfolding.

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Credits to much of this information goes to Max Brooks' "The Zombie Survival Guide"
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Welcome To The IDF

Infected Defense Force

Welcome to the IDF, where survival is our only concern. In the posts that follow in the next few months, we will provide you with vital and indispensable information that will aid you in keeping yourself and your loved ones alive. From recognizing the initial threat to learning how to choose the correct weapons and gear, we will dedicate ourselves to insuring that you are proplerly informed on what is coming. A lot of information from this blog will be drawn from Max Brook's "The Zombie Survival Guide". This text is an excellent source of information, and was what initially sparked our concern for the Outbreak, and we highly recommend that you purchase yourself a copy. If you are anywhere near South East America when the Infection strikes, seek us out. We are a group of highly trained, professional anti-Infected soldiers whose sole dedication will be your and our survival. Join our ranks. We are here, and we are very much alive. You are not alone.